Features
| Designed to fit all Series 1, 2 and engines. |
Technical
| Redesigned by Mark Broadhurst to allow more clearance between drive plate and all types of crankshafts. Designed to use all types of drive screws. |
Development History
| Mark has been rebuilding engines for 30 years and in that time clearances between the drive plate and crankshaft have caused some problems. Some plates warp especially the alloy ones and some just sit too high causing the crank to lock or rub. Some drive plate gaskets are thicker making the plate stand proud. Some engines are machined incorrectly and the drive bearing is not at the right height. For these reasons some engines especially engines build from scratch or using after market cranks can lock or rub. |
Reasons to Buy
| Our plate fit all engines. Our plate does not warp. Our plate works with all drive side screws. |
Tips
| Fit a drive bearing by heating the casing. Never hit the inner race. Always use a new bearing on a rebuild. Use a drive bearing with a single seal facing the crank, a trick from MRB for many years, this takes the pressure off the drive seal and prevents oil seal failure. Always use a new drive gasket. Silicone seal both sides of the gasket. Fit the seal carefully and squarely into the drive plate. Fit the seal with the spring towards the crankshaft. Grease or oil the seal and crank faces upon assembly. Always use new high tensile drive plate screws, clean any oil from the threads and use a small about of loctite to stop screws vibrating out. Tighten each screw equally and diagonally until tight. Fit the crank using a drive side pulling sleeve (Invented by MRB) Make sure the crank spins free, if its hard to turn remove it and check the seal hasn't lipped over. |
1. Ian B 19 Jun 2010
Absolute quality part ... Don't mess about, chuck your old one away and fit one of these beauties.
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